Fashion loves a pattern play, from time-honored tweeds to futuristic digital prints. These motifs aren’t just eye-catching designs – they carry stories of heritage, rebellion, and revival. Below, we explore influential patterns across eras, each with its origin tale, symbolic vibe, and star turns in both luxury and everyday style.
Houndstooth (Pepita)
A folded length of classic black-and-white houndstooth (Pepita) fabric, known for its broken check pattern.
Origin & Heritage: Houndstooth is a bold, jagged check that originated in rustic Scottish wool weaves centuries ago. Its name comes from the toothed shape, resembling a dog’s tooth. Traditionally a menswear pattern (think 19th-century Scottish clan tweeds and 1930s suits), it leapt into womenswear when Christian Dior featured it in his 1947 New Look collection. Dior’s risky move – using a pattern until then “for men only” – paid off, cementing houndstooth (dubbed Pepita by Dior after a Spanish dancer) as a symbol of post-war elegance and chic prosperity.
Key Associations: Classic houndstooth, often in sharp black-and-white, exudes sophistication and a touch of aristocratic flair. It’s long been associated with luxury and success – even appearing in the University of Alabama’s famed houndstooth hats and in the corporate identity of David Jones in Australia. The pattern suggests confidence and tradition, yet its jagged form also reads as dynamic and edgy.
Notable Uses: High fashion houses like Dior and Chanel have repeatedly embraced houndstooth in suits and coats, usually in wool. The pattern became a signature for Dior – even the Miss Dior perfume was packaged with a houndstooth motif as a nod to the house’s heritage. In a modern twist, Alexander McQueen blew up houndstooth to gigantic proportions for an avant-garde look in 2009, explicitly referencing Dior’s classic tweeds. Beyond the runway, Pepita-patterned seat inserts became an iconic feature of Porsche sports cars in the 1960s, bringing couture flair to car interiors. Today, whether on a tailored blazer or a pair of heels, houndstooth continues to cycle back into fashion – timeless
Stripes
Origin & Nautical Roots: Stripes boast a dramatic history. Medieval Europe deemed striped garments scandalous (reserved for jesters or worse), but by the 19th century stripes had sailed to respectability via the French Navy. In 1858, the Breton stripe sailor shirt became official naval uniform, featuring 21 stripes for each of Napoleon’s victories. These navy-and-white horizontal stripes (the marinière) soon washed ashore into fashion: legend credits designer Coco Chanel in the 1910s with popularizing the Breton top for women, transforming a sailor’s uniform into a chic casual staple on the French Riviera.
Symbolism: Over time, stripes shed their bad-boy image and came to signify everything from nautical adventure to refined elegance. Vertical pinstripes on a suit suggest businesslike authority, while colorful rugby stripes evoke preppy collegiate style. Stripes can also imply rebellion – consider the wide “jailbird” stripes beloved by 1920s gangsters, or the way 1960s counterculture embraced bold op-art stripes. Often, stripes simply signal classic chic: clean, orderly, and timeless.
Notable Uses: Countless designers have reinterpreted stripes. Ralph Lauren, for one, built an empire partly on striped motifs – from the clean lines of Oxford shirting to bold regimental stripes on ties. In 1967, a young Ralph Lauren launched his first line of ties in vivid stripes, cementing what would be called the “preppy” East Coast aesthetic. On the flip side, French designer Jean-Paul Gaultier leaned into sailor-striped shirts in the 1980s as his trademark – using the classic Breton stripe as a unisex, transgressive uniform on runways. Stripes also permeate everyday wear: the never-out-of-style striped Breton tee, the summer-fresh awning stripe dress, or the sporty Adidas triple-stripe. Designers like Missoni experimented with zigzagging knit stripes, and Paul Smith became known for multicolored stripe patterns. From beachwear to businesswear, stripes have evolved with each era. Today, they’re universally loved for their versatility – equally at home in a Parisian chic ensemble or a streetwear look – proving that few patterns can rival stripes’ staying power.
Plaid (Tartan)
Origin & Tradition: Plaid – also known as tartan – has its roots deep in the Scottish Highlands. Originally hand-woven by local artisans, tartan cloths with crisscrossing horizontal and vertical bands of color were once specific to clans, serving as proud symbols of family identity as far back as the 1500s. After the 1746 Battle of Culloden, tartans were even banned in Scotland for a time, as the British tried to suppress Highland culture. But the pattern’s allure was undeniable. By the 19th century, tartan experienced a renaissance when Queen Victoria embraced all things Scottish, and it became both a royal and fashion favorite.
Symbolism: Plaid carries a dual personality. On one hand, it speaks of tradition, heritage, and schoolgirl uniforms – the epitome of preppy respectability. On the other, it has been used as a badge of rebellion. Because tartan was so establishment in Britain, punks in the 1970s (led by designer Vivienne Westwood) adopted ripped-up plaid as an anti-establishment statement. The pattern can feel cozy or subversive depending on how it’s styled.
Notable Uses: The journey of plaid in fashion has been a wild ride across social classes and subcultures. Luxury brand Burberry put tartan on the global map when it trademarked its camel-colored plaid in 1924. Originally a lining for Burberry’s trench coats, that camel check became so iconic it’s now instantly linked with British luxury. In the 1970s, Vivienne Westwood shocked haute couture by slashing traditional tartans into punk outfits, famously dressing the Sex Pistols in plaid and turning a symbol of royalty into one of rebellion. The ’90s then brought plaid to the grunge scene – think Nirvana and Seattle flannel. Suddenly, a simple plaid flannel shirt tied around the waist became the uniform of rock anti-fashion, prized for its thrift-shop, working-class vibe (ironically making not trying to be fashionable a fashion statement). After grunge went mainstream, plaid remained a fall favorite. It swings back in style regularly, from preppy college blazers to high-fashion runways. In recent seasons, tartan has been everywhere: Dior showed elegant plaid suits, Burberry (under new creative director Daniel Lee) remixed its checks into streetwise kilts, and labels like Saint Laurent and Michael Kors have sent out tailored plaid coats. Whether it’s a classic Buffalo plaid flannel or a sleek tartan skirt, plaid proves its chameleon quality — equally “at home” in a country lodge, a punk concert, or a corporate boardroom.
Polka Dots
Origin & Fun Factor: Polka dots – those playful, evenly spaced spots – burst into vogue in the mid-19th century during the polka dance craze (hence the name). The pattern’s exact origin is a bit mysterious, but it gained popularity in Europe as machinery advanced enough to print neat dotted repeats on fabric. By the early 20th century, polka dots had crossed the Atlantic and become an American favorite. In 1928, Disney’s Minnie Mouse debuted in her red-and-white polka dot dress and bow, cementing the dotty pattern as an icon of cute, feminine style. The 1950s then embraced polka dots with full force – think swing dresses, cupcake aprons, and the famous itsy-bitsy teeny-weeny yellow polka dot bikini of the 1960 hit song.
Symbolism: Polka dots almost universally convey a sense of playfulness and whimsy. They evoke nostalgia – retro pin-up dresses and vintage bathing suits – as well as a certain girlish charm (Minnie Mouse, after all!). Yet, polka dots can also be sophisticated or avant-garde depending on scale and context. In fine art, polka dots became the obsession of Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama, who gave them deeper symbolic meaning about infinity and self-obliteration. In fashion, large polka dots can feel bold and modern, while tiny dots read as demure and classic (e.g., a gentleman’s polka-dotted silk tie or a 1940s tea dress).
Notable Uses: So many style moments are marked with dots. Christian Dior featured elegant polka dot day dresses in the 1950s, aligning with the era’s ultra-feminine look. Hollywood loved them: actresses like Marilyn Monroe and Lucille Ball famously wore polka dots on and off screen. Fast forward to today, and polka dots keep resurfacing. Luxury has combined with art: Louis Vuitton collaborated with artist Yayoi Kusama, known as the “Queen of Polka Dots,” in a collection that splashed Kusama’s signature dots over bags and dresses (first in 2012 and again in 2023). Those collaborations showed how a simple dot pattern can be elevated to high art and high fashion. Meanwhile, on the high street, polka dots never really vanish – they’re a perennial favorite for spring dresses and blouses. In fact, recent runways have re-spotlighted polka dots, with designers like Carolina Herrera and Balmain featuring refined neutral-toned polka dot pieces, bringing back a ’50s favorite in fresh form. Whether channeling retro vibes or modern minimalism, polka dots manage to feel unapologetically fun. They remind us that fashion doesn’t always have to take itself too seriously – sometimes, it’s okay to “spot” some whimsy.
Animal Prints
Origin & Exotic Allure: Wearing animal patterns started literally – with real animal furs and skins flaunted by ancient rulers. In many cultures, a leopard or tiger pelt was the ultimate status symbol, signifying power and wealth (from African kings to European nobility). As actual pelts became less practical, the pattern of those majestic creatures was replicated on fabric. By the 18th and 19th centuries, wealthy Europeans draped themselves and their salons in faux leopard spots and zebra stripes. Yet it was in the 20th century that animal prints truly pounced into high fashion. In 1947, Christian Dior’s very first collection (the same famed “New Look”) included a silk chiffon gown printed with leopard spots – marking the print’s couture debut. From then on, leopard, cheetah, zebra, and snake prints slinked in and out of style, always embodying a bit of the wild side.
Symbolism: Animal prints are inherently bold and sensual. There’s a reason a leopard-print dress is considered va-va-voom – the motif carries the animal’s ferocity and glamour to the wearer. Over the years, leopard print especially has teetered between luxurious and provocative. Worn in the right way, it says confidence, sex appeal, and luxury (think Eartha Kitt purring in leopard in the 1950s, or Jackie Kennedy’s elegant leopard coat in 1962). But animal prints have also been labeled “tacky” or too loud at times, especially when overused – they are the ultimate statement pattern, not known for subtlety. This push-pull gives animal prints a kind of rebellious reputation as well; they’re the clothing equivalent of breaking the rules a bit.
Notable Uses: After Dior’s endorsement, many fashion houses fell in love with animal prints. Hollywood starlets of the 1950s donned leopard print bathing suits and accessories, cementing it as a sultry trend. In 1962, First Lady Jackie Kennedy wore a Oleg Cassini leopard fur coat that was so chic it sparked a massive craze – unfortunately leading to overhunting of leopards (a fact that prompted a ban on leopard fur in 1973). The ’70s and ’80s took animal prints to extremes: from rockstars like Debbie Harry performing in a leopard jumpsuit to designers like Roberto Cavalli building an entire brand DNA around exotic prints. Cavalli introduced cheetah spots, zebra stripes, even butterfly prints into his glamorous ’70s and ’90s collections. Similarly, Dolce & Gabbana have made leopard print a house signature, often lining their dresses and coats with leopard-spotted silk for an Italian bombshell touch. Gianni Versace in the ’90s splashed neon-colored leopard spots on metal mesh shirts and paired leopard with baroque gold swirls – the very picture of maximalist excess. For every moment the trend was declared “over,” another moment saw it reborn: animal prints roared back in the 2000s club scene (think leopard-print leggings and handbags) and again in recent years. In fact, 2020s runways are wild for animal motifs once more. Designers have refined the look, making it feel modern and luxe. Michael Kors sent out a sleek jaguar-print coat, and young brands like Jacquemus have played with zebra stripes in chic monochrome looks. Street style stars are mixing leopard prints with everyday wear, reaffirming that a pop of “animalier” can be as elegant as it is eye-catching. As Harper’s Bazaar noted, after a period of being cast aside as “trashy,” animal print is thriving in 2025, proudly loud and undeniably chic once again. Truly, these patterns have never been fully tamed – they always come roaring back.
Digital & Abstract Prints
Origin & Tech Influence: In the late 20th and early 21st century, advances in digital printing technology unleashed a whole new world of pattern design. No longer limited to hand-drawn repeats or woven checks, designers could print any digital image onto fabric. This gave rise to hyper-realistic and abstract prints with vivid detail and color. By the 2010s, designers like Mary Katrantzou earned the title “Queen of Digital Prints” for her groundbreaking use of technology. Katrantzou became famous for printing trompe-l’oeil images of everyday objects (typewriters, perfume bottles, interiors) onto garments in fantastical ways. Her eye-popping, surreal patterns showed how tech could blur art, photography, and fashion on a single dress.
Style & Symbolism: Digital prints don’t have one fixed meaning – they’re as varied as the imagination. What they represent is innovation and creativity. These prints often collage elements (florals with galaxies, animal skins with neon shapes) or use photo-real imagery that was once impossible on cloth. Abstract prints, similarly, emphasize color, shape, and movement without depicting a recognizable object. They carry the legacy of mid-century modern art: think of the psychedelic swirls of the 1960s or the geometric op-art patterns in black and white. Such prints can feel modern, artistic, and a bit avant-garde, making a strong style statement about individuality.
Notable Uses: Abstract and digital prints have given us some of fashion’s most mesmerizing moments. In the 1960s, Emilio Pucci pioneered swirling, kaleidoscopic prints in a rainbow of colors – essentially wearable art that captured the jet-set glamour of the era. By 1965, Pucci’s signature abstract patterns (often inspired by Italian landscapes or psychedelic art) were so famous that he was dubbed “The Prince of Prints”. Those vintage Pucci designs remain coveted and have influenced contemporary resort wear with their joyful, fluid geometry. Fast forward, and Alexander McQueen took abstract to another level using digital tools: his 2010 Plato’s Atlantis collection featured computer-generated reptilian and coral patterns printed onto dresses, transforming models into exotic creature-like beings. The collection imagined an otherworldly future and was a technical triumph, with intricate kaleidoscopic prints of snakeskin and jellyfish scales seamlessly covering flowing gowns. It demonstrated how digital prints could create an immersive fantasy. Other designers like Peter Pilotto and Prada have also used digital art-inspired prints – from cosmic landscapes to blurred watercolors – to give their clothes a distinctive edge. In everyday fashion, digital printing has made complex patterns more accessible: your tropical photo-print bikini or galaxy-print leggings owe their existence to this tech. Meanwhile, abstract prints (not linked to any literal image) remain runway staples: Dries Van Noten might showcase dresses splashed with abstract brushstroke patterns; Marni might play with oversized graphic shapes. These patterns keep evolving, often echoing art movements – one season might see Jackson Pollock-esque paint splatters on jackets, another season brings minimalist splashes of color in the style of Rothko. The beauty of digital and abstract prints is their limitless variety. They epitomize how fashion continually reinvents itself, using new tools to reimagine what a “pattern” can be – even as they sometimes nod to art and styles of decades past.
Modern Pattern Trends & Revival
Fashion patterns, much like the rest of fashion, are cyclical – constantly being reinvented. Today, we witness a mash-up of eras on runways and streets. Classic patterns are resurfacing with fresh twists, and new trends are emerging, proving that prints remain the lifeblood of design.
- Heritage Revival: Many old-school patterns are enjoying a comeback. Polka dots, as mentioned, are back in the spotlight – appearing in refined neutral tones on contemporary blouses and dresses, pleasing vintage lovers and modern minimalists alike. Likewise, stripes are never far from trend reports; currently, designers have shifted focus to vertical stripes for an elongating, updated look, though the beloved Breton horizontal will never truly go away. Plaids reappear every fall/winter without fail, but now we see them not just in earthy wool skirts, but also in unexpected forms like silk evening gowns or mixed-and-matched patchwork (a nod to sustainable upcycling and streetwear’s love of clash). Even houndstooth got a streetwear twist recently – seen blown up in oversized puffer jackets and printed on sneakers – a far cry from its tweedy origins.
- Mixing Patterns: One hallmark of current fashion is pattern mixing – wearing multiple prints boldly together. Style influencers pair stripes with florals, plaids with animal print, in artful clashes that would make previous generations cringe. The result is a celebratory, maximalist approach to patterns that feels very now. Brands like Gucci (under Alessandro Michele) led this maximalism by throwing contrasting motifs onto single outfits. It’s a trend born from a digital age of overload – more is more, and patterns provide the visual excitement.
- Logomania & Monograms: A distinctly modern pattern trend is the resurgence of monogram prints – essentially, the logo as pattern. In the logo-mad 1990s, wearing head-to-toe Gucci G’s or LV monograms was the ultimate status symbol. That fell out of favor in the minimalist 2000s, when blatant branding was deemed tacky. But fashion loves nostalgia: in the late 2010s, logomania roared back. Luxury houses like Fendi reissued their classic “FF” Zucca print and Louis Vuitton and Dior brought back archived monogram styles, sparking a logo-print craze among a new generation. What was once seen as flashy is now ironically cool again, often mixed into casual streetwear. As one fashion writer quipped, the desire for logos returned “with a vengeance,” turning monogram patterns into coveted style statements once more. Wearing a branded pattern all over is a way to signal both luxury cred and a tongue-in-cheek embrace of fashion history.
- New Kids on the Block: Alongside the classics, some novel patterns are trending. One example is the harlequin diamond motif – a bold geometric pattern reminiscent of a jester’s costume. This diamond check has appeared in collections by Versace and Vivienne Westwood lately, bringing a playful retro vibe that still feels fresh. Another is the rise of wavy psychedelic prints, echoing 1960s and ’70s patterns. Wavy lines in vibrant colors have been spotted on everything from dresses to home decor, feeding into the broader 1970s revival in fashion. Tie-dye, once a hippie hallmark, had a huge high-fashion moment recently as well, reborn in luxury cashmere and silk. Even camo prints – traditionally military – cycle in and out (currently often rendered in bold colors or abstracted forms for a modern twist).
In 2025, virtually every pattern has a place. Designers are proving that iconic prints like houndstooth, plaid, stripes, dots, and animal prints can be endlessly reimagined so they never feel outdated. At the same time, advancements in digital design and a mash-up of global influences mean new patterns keep emerging to capture the zeitgeist. The result is a vibrant tapestry of options: a fashion enthusiast today might wear a classic tweed check blazer, 70s swirl-print pants, and monogrammed sneakers all in one outfit. And why not? Patterns allow us to express personality and mood in an instant. They carry cultural and historical resonance, yet invite fresh creativity with each new era.
In the end, whether you’re a casual browser who just likes a cute polka dot dress or a hardcore fashion enthusiast who can discern a Royal Stewart tartan from a Black Watch, one thing is clear: great patterns never truly go out of style. They simply reinvent themselves, again and again, a stylish thread connecting fashion’s past, present, and future.